Milk, Bacteria and Time, Oh My! Spanish Cheese 101 (Food)
Congratulations! You debated whether to read this article after learning the discussion would be about cheese and here you are. Be proud, very proud. You are ready to move past the plastic sleeved cheese slice that stuffs your grilled cheese sandwiches.
It’s time you push past your feelings of unworthiness because you haven’t taken a hoity-toity artisan cheese tour through the Pyrenees of Catalonia. Maybe you’ve been turned off by those types you spy at cocktail parties . . . the food snobs who know everything about anything epicurean.
They are poised by the cheese platter, decked in tweed coats and turtlenecks as they look down on you, the lowly cheese novice, glaring at you with their tortoise shell eyeglasses pushed far down the bridge of the nose.
But hope is alive for you cheese novices–the exclusive world of cheese is beginning to be being exposed. Years ago, you would have to visit a fine gourmet charcuterie shop manned by smart-assed 18-year olds pushing his globally lactic finds.
Today, fine artisan cheeses can be found in any massive warehouse clubs like Costco and almost any neighborhood supermarket.
So if your level of comfort is creating a cheese platter comprised of slabs of traffic cone colored cheddar and a fuchsia ball of port wine cheese with mechanically pressed on soggy walnuts, let this article serve as a primer to your first step in gourmet cheeses.
That first step is to pick a country. Let’s use Spain to start since most of this country’s cheeses are so easy on the palate.
The second step is to create a ladder of flavor for your guests to climb. Choose one mild, one medium and one strong cheese for your cheese platters.
MILD:
Queso Tetilla (tet-TEA-ya) is pleasant, mild-mannered cow’s milk cheese named after a woman’s breast. You can’t miss this two pound Hershey kiss shaped lump of cheese in the cheese bin. Don’t look past this shy, mellow seniorita. Tetilla is a great melter and can be used for grilled cheese purposes.
Cabra Romera is another mild to medium Spanish cheese with a firm and pale flesh. During the final third month of aging, rosemary and lard is rubbed onto the rind infusing a floral-herb scent. This is one rind you don’t want to nibble around.
MEDIUM:
Young Manchego is a cave-aged smooth operator with a mild, nutty and slightly tangy flavor. You can sometimes smell a hint of mountain grasses and herbs the sheep munch on before sharing their milk with the farmers. If you prefer a tangier, in-your-face experience, try the grown-up aged Manchego. Remember, the more aged a cheese, the sharper the flavor.
Idiazabal (I-dia-tha-bal) is a rustic cheese from the farms of the northern Basque county near France. The hearty flesh can be smoky, oily and slightly chewy. For preservation, early sheep farmers of the Pyrenees Mountains would hang their Idiazabal cheese logs in chimneys stuffed with fiery hawthorn and cherry logs for preservation and aging.
STRONG:
Valdeon is a valiant and gracious blue whose cows and goats from the northern coast of Spain provide a smooth, buttery flavor with a hint of pepper and a long linger on the tongue. Once this lightly salted cheese emerges from its dark and damp limestone cave, you’ll notice it’s wrapped in either oak or chestnut leaves. Most cheese-heads are familiar with Valdeon’s older and bolder brother, Cabrales. But for a lower price and more mellow blue cheese tang, Valdeon is a great beginner’s blue.
Cabrales is the big cheese, the Mike Tyson in the ring. Large and in charge, this famous Spanish blue may be a combination of cow, goat and sheep’s milk, depending on the whim of the farmer that spring. A thin foil wrapper tightly hugs a lightly salted crust that protects a creamy, but piquant blue-veined flesh.
Feeling cocky now and want to find more Spanish cheeses? Try logging onto these websites for a Spanish special delivery.
www.murryscheese.com: A New York City cheese institution that delivers.
www.tienda.com: A Spanish importer with high-end Spanish cheeses.
www.igourmet.com: An Internet retailer of gourmet goods and cheeses.
COOK’S NOTES: Not the cheese platter type? This pizza is a great appetizer for friends or a dinner for a chilly Fall evening.
VALDEAON, WALNUT AND HONEY PIZZA
Serves 4 or two really hungry people
1 pizza crust (fresh from supermarket or frozen from freezer section)
Sprinkle of flour or cornmeal
1 pear, sliced thinly
½ teaspoon thyme
1 teaspoon butter
¼ cup walnuts, chopped
4 ounces of Valdeon blue cheese
4 ounces of Tetilla or fresh mozzarella
4 ounces of Serrano or Proscuitto di Parma
Drizzle of Honey
Fresh ground pepper
Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Sauté pear slices in butter and thyme until pears are soft. Lay pizza dough onto floured baking sheet or stone. Brush pizza crust with olive oil. Evenly spread pears, walnuts, blue cheese, Tetilla and Serrano ham around the pizza crust. Grind fresh pepper overtop. Cook for 8 to 10 minutes until crust is brown and cheese is melted. Drizzle honey over cooked pizza.
–Shelly Connors, Red Editorial Staff.


The drive to Marco Island, in Southwest Florida, is a serene one. Water borders both sides of the road, boats float listlessly along, fishing poles sticking out like pins in a fiberglass cushion. Egrets criss-cross the panoramic scenery, settling gently into the thick, lush mangroves.
We all remember the good old days of a steaming cup of warm apple cider slid onto the table by mom after a long day of chilly winter playing. That rich apple aroma wafted up to your nose, the deep warmth resonated through your fingers as they clutched the mug and that sweet flavor of spices resonated around your mouth.
It is typically a season marked with fiery changes in summer’s green foliage, the first wafting smells of wood fires crackling in long dormant fireplaces and pimply faced teens slinging raw eggs at your freshly painted house or threading toilet paper deep within the recesses of your fern and bushes. It is that definitive point when the air stings your lungs with that first breath of a cold morning and recalls sweaters from their long summer storage. Ahhhh, Fall. The doormat to the great house of winter.
There was a time when New York City’s finest restaurants bragged they had fresh raspberries flown in from far away warm climates each December. Out of season produce was sourced from exotic locations to satisfy the particular palates of New York’s demanding gourmands.
Our car windows are rolled down, but the heat is blasting to compete with the chilled October morning air. We wouldn’t miss the chance to breath in the clean, crisp air that autumn has blown in.
The notion of vending machine “dining” is not new. A crumbled package of Doritos stands in as an appetizer and a main course of mummified turkey on lab engineered bread parades as a main entrée, though dishes may vary from machine to machine. This type of eating has long been a staple at both colleges and the hallowed halls of great institutions as well.
Large buildings thrust up towards a slightly gray sky, dull slivers of windows reflecting the sluggish glut of traffic crawling along Avenida Paulista. On the serpentine streets below, pedestrians casually amble along, the relaxed pace reflective of the national attitude. It is another day in Sao Paulo, the cosmopolitan Brazilian city that squats in the shadow of her flashy sister, Rio de Janeiro.
There are certain moments in life when clarity is bestowed upon your consciousness; a fresh vision of the road life sent you down. The birth of a child, finishing your first marathon, the stark realization that the job you once struggled so hard to find actually plumbs the depths of such sheer misery that it makes every day a race to happy hour.
In a scene strangely reminiscent of “The Good, the Bad and the Ugly” in which Tuco runs wildly around the graveyard searching for Bill Carson’s name, headstones whirling violently past, I careened around the Fancy Food Show in San Francisco; glistening hams flashing by, fleeting glimpses of obscenely large blocks of cheese and portly food lovers clotting around the newest gizmo for boiling water.