Day Tripping to the Real Caribbean (Travel and Food)

There are those who have idyllic thoughts of a Caribbean getaway: sipping over-sweetened frozen concoctions while the sounds of steel drums hammer their mainland blues away. And then there are those who seek out true island authenticity. For the later, I offer you a daytrip to Isla de Vieques.

Puerto Rico’s “little sister”, Vieques Island, is big on rustic charm but small on the usual cushy comforts of a Caribbean getaway. Because it’s only a few miles off the southeastern coast of Puerto Rico, it’s a perfect day trip for the adventurous.

There are two ways of getting to Vieques. By air, a winged puddle jumper can take you on the ten minute flight. For the cash-challenged crowd, you can go by public ferry which takes about twenty minutes (and lucky for you, the wild ride from the rolling and rollicking waves is thrown in for free).

Once on land, you’ll want to rent a jeep. Don’t be surprised to find missing rearview mirrors, floor boards riddled with rust and brakes that work on island-time.

As you drive down the crater-riddled road feeling your flabby parts jiggle-the ones that should have been lost on your last crash diet-be sure to avoid the wild horses, dogs and pigs that may meander right into the road.

Take your jeep to visit one of Vieque’s many isolated beaches, former bombing ranges for the United States Navy. After years of protests, the Navy retreated and the beaches are ready for fulltime lounging and snorkeling.

Enjoy the private isolation of having a beach to your self, but be wary of the true pirates of the Caribbean-the local banditos hiding in the thick sea oats looking to snatch your belongings while you take a dip into the ice blue Caribbean.

Before heading back to the mainland, you’ll want to have an early dinner at a restaurant overlooking the subtropical scenery. As you dine on the local delicacies, the chirping Coqui’s-an indigenous frog the size of a pencil eraser-with serenade you an elegant and sweet song.

So back on the ferry or plane you go. Who says the true Caribbean has been lost? Visit Vieques for the day and maybe you’ll even find yourself.

Cook’s Notes: To evoke the memories of the Caribbean breezes, I’ve created a version of Grouper En Papillote that when opened tableside, this steaming package releases a sweet, spicy and salty perfume that will be sure to take you away to the islands. For added authenticity, you can use banana leaves to wrap the fish. Banana leaves will infuse your ingredients with a grassy fresh essence.

Caribbean Grouper En Papillote
Serves two

Parchment paper or tin foil
1 lb. fresh grouper or any other white flaky fish
1 cup dry couscous
½ cup black bean
¼ cup mango or pineapple, chopped
½ cup diced tomato
1 garlic clove, minced
½ cup red onion, sliced very thinly
½ cup coconut milk
2 tablespoons dry white wine
1 tablespoon butter
1 habanero pepper, sliced, seeds removed (jalapeño for the meek)
1 lime, zested
2-3 sprigs of cilantro
Salt and fresh ground pepper

Preheat your oven to 425 degrees. Lay down the parchment paper or foil cut into a rectangle large enough to fold over your fish and ingredients-about six inches on each side.

Place the dry couscous into the center and sprinkle the black beans, mango, diced tomato, red onion, garlic on top and season with salt and pepper.

Lay your fish on top of the couscous. Pour the coconut milk and wine over the fish. Season the filet with salt and pepper. Zest the lime over the fish then place the habanera slices, cilantro, and butter on top of the grouper.

Fold in the sides of the foil or parchment over the filet then seal the top by folding down like you would a lunch bag. Fold down until you almost reach the top of the fish.

Cook on a baking sheet in the middle of the oven for 15-20 minutes.

–Shelly Connors, RED Editorial Staff.